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SL-C Manual: General Information


  • Width: 74 inches (1880mm)
  • Height: 43 inches (1092mm) 
  • Length: 168 inches (4267mm) - excluding optional rear wing
  • Wheelbase: 105 inches (2667mm) 
  • Weight: approx. 2425 lbs. (1100kg) depending on options, interior finish & driveline choice. 
  • A track-focused SL-C can be built at or under 2000 pounds with careful attention to light components in the driveline, no AC and minimal interior.

Safe Jacking Areas

To avoid damage or undue stress, you should jack the chassis up only where the chassis is reinforced and suitable for lifting. Do not lift or jack the car on the front aluminum bolt on extension that supports the radiator as this is not designed for supporting anything except hinges, the radiator and ancillaries. Also avoid the large open floor areas and also the floor sections that protrude from the main chassis to support the side of the cabin. Lifting the car by the floors will always result in bowed floor panels!

Never attempt to lift the car using the diffuser, side skirts or splitter- immediate damage will result.

When lifting the car with a hydraulic lift or stationary lift, be sure the arms will not foul the side skirts as they rise. The use of adaptors on some lift arms may be necessary.

The photo below has arrows pointing to some of the recommended safe jacking points.

You may find it useful to paint the bottom of the chassis with yellow outlines to clearly mark where the car can safely be lifted, in order to minimize the risk of damage from jacking or lifting.

Although the picture above shows an early crossmember at the rear of the car which can be used to lift the car, later cars have a billet crossmember at the rear with the engraved legend “Do not lift”. Lifting here will typically bend the crossmember and Superlite will not replace this crossmember if there is an indication that it was bent by lifting.  

Initial Suspension and Alignment Settings

The table below shows settings that are a starting point for street-driven cars. Your car may respond to slightly different settings, and you are encouraged to experiment.

Camber, Front Min: -0.3 degrees Max: -1.3 degrees Preferred: -0.8 degrees
Camber, Rear Min: -0.3 degrees Max: -1.5 degrees Preferred: -1.0 degrees
Toe, Front Min: 1/32” toe IN Max: 1/8” toe IN Preferred: 1/16” toe IN
Toe Rear Min: 0 toe Max: 1/8” toe IN Preferred: 1/16” toe IN
Caster, front Min: 4 degrees Max 8 degrees Preferred: 5 degrees, as factory set
Ride height, front Min: 4.0”, measured under the front “axle” Max: 4.125”, measured under the front “axle” Preferred: 4.0”
Ride height, rear Min: 4.5”, measured under the rear “axle” centerline Max: 4.8”, measured under the rear “axle” centerline Preferred: 4,5”

The final alignment should be done with the car completely finished with all fluids etc. 

Track-focused cars will require an alignment with the driver in place, or equivalent, properly-placed ballast to account for the driver weight. 

Cars that are not driven on the street can run much more aggressive camber settings. For example, a reasonable starting point for a track or race car would be 1.5 to 2 degrees of negative camber in the front, with about the same or somewhat less in the rear. Because each driver has a different style, the optimum settings for camber, toe, tire pressure, etc., are often discovered only after extensive on-track experience and measurement; However, these should be a good platform from which to begin experimenting. The SL-C is not really an ideal autocross car, but more front camber (2-3 degrees) and slightly more rear camber are in order for that kind of competition.

If you have a race-only SL-C with the updated aero kit, please contact the factory for more advanced setup info, as the addition of the aero components alters the optimum setup.

Caster adjustment is preset at the factory by the aluminum safety spacers that are fitted to either side of the rod ends that attach the suspension arms to the chassis. If you require a different suspension alignment please contact us with your requirements. You can fine tune the camber adjustment using suspension arm rod ends for adjustment. (Please consult the “Suspension” section for information regarding the recommended minimum thread engagement requirements.) Most street cars will not need to worry about caster- just accept what the car turns out to have, unless you have very specific circumstances that warrant more or less caster than the factory setup provides.

Camber adjustment is performed by adjusting the suspension arm rod ends for adjustment. (Please consult the “Suspension” section for information regarding the recommended minimum thread engagement requirements.)

Toe adjustment is performed with the steering rack end threaded adjustment. Be sure that you are holding the tie rod correctly when you adjust it, or it may just spin in the rack with no actual change made.

Bump Steer should be checked when caster is set. When the appropriate bump-steer spacers are used, the SL-C enjoys very minimal bump steer both front and rear. See suspension section for details of the adjustment.

Shock Settings: as a starting point, set the shocks to 6 clicks of compression and 6 clicks of rebound. Further tuning may alter these settings, based on your individual setup, but they are a useful start. 

If you take the car to a regular alignment shop, most of them will want to know what car should be used to input to their alignment computer. The SL-C won’t be there, of course, but starting with a 2011 Chevrolet Corvette Z06 will get the machine close. You can then get the alignment technician to follow your settings, as they are generally within the wide range acceptable for the Z06. It will be much easier to align the car with both the tail open or off, and the front clip removed. Plan ahead of time, before you get to the alignment shop how you will provide access to the front and rear suspension for the tech.

More precise settings can be obtained with more effort and skill, as from most good race-prep shops. If you are racing or tracking the car, this is probably the best option, unless you already have the right alignment gear and know how to use it.

Be sure the car is “square”, meaning that, for example, you aren’t getting a total toe number from one wheel being crazy out and the other compensating for it. Both wheels need to have a very similar setting, such that the total toe is very close to twice the individual setting of each wheel. Your alignment tech will know how to get the car square, and the printout he produces will usually show whether or not that is the case.